Unappetising as it sounds, Salty Dog is the latest drinking and dining venue in Glasgow's Princes Square.
Offering seafood, grill and cocktails, it sounds very ritzy. But when you hear that it's pub and club entrepreneur Colin Barr's new adventure, you can imagine it might be a bit posh but not po-faced.
Salty Dog serves caviar and Cristal champagne but also aims to serve up a basic, Glasgow good time. On the food terrace, near Conran's Zinc, Glasgow's own trends etter is playing Terence at his own game, but with a bit of Weegie panache.
Barr describes the interior as ''camp Champs Elysees meets the fishmongers in Barcelona''.
Despite being in a shopping mall, even one that doesn't have a Mark One, it has classy looks.
A galaxy of silver globes hang above a parquet and granite floor, a large granite bar, black tables and retro, wooden chairs.
A raised area for dining has chocolate vinyl semi-circular booths and a tongue-in-cheek, wall-mounted fish. The black and silver and the Parisian gilt swirls give it a hint of kitsch without being too self-conscious.
The same can't be said for some of the clientele Salty's is obviously a place to be seen.
Just when you thought Princes Square had passed its heyday with the disappearance of Katherine Hammett and the appearance of the Burberry-clad ned, eh?
But the ethos today is for Salty Dog to be chameleon-like in that it can serve grannies and out-of towners in daytime and the up-for-it crowd at night, whether younger or more mature.
Food is served from noon until 10 and the menu is made up of mainly seafood with some grills. There's everything from crayfish, lobster, langoustine and oysters to cod and chips and haddock fish cakes. And caviar.
The prices are reasonable and the food is fresh daily and very tasty, so there's no need to wait for a special occasion to eat here.
Likewise, if you don't fancy forking out £165 for a bottle of Cristal, the wine list starts at a more affordable £12.50.
The gantry is something to behold. There are rows of rarely seen bottles of spirits and liqueurs, with premium beers on tap, the Russian speciality beer Baltika by the bottle, cigars and a decent choice of malts.
And when they say they do cocktails, they mean it.
You can sample 50, classic and contemporary, although it's best not to be too curious in the one session.
Mr Barr holds his hands up to putting style over content in the past, but this time service and training is high on the agenda, so you shouldn't have to wait too long for the mixologists to do their stuff.
Music has always played an important part in Colin's bars, so the sound system is the best of gear customised just for them, so that they can be chameleonlike with the music too.
I caught The ManWho Shot Liberty Valance on one visit.
So glamour's back in town, but this time it's not just for ''regulars only''.
And just in case anyone's wondering about the strangely unglamorous name, it comes from a reconditioned Americana clothes shop in Amsterdam that Barr used to spend all his cash in many moons ago, and not something that's likely to appear on your plate.
Give it a whirl you certainly won't be disappointed.
Open: Noon until midnight, seven days
Food: Noon until 10 pm
Drinks: Glass of wine, £3.50, pint of Kronenbourg 1664, £2.90, cocktails from £5
Rating: Three out of five
Details
01292 443 700
Food is served from noon until 10 and the menu is made up of mainly seafood with some grills. There's everything from crayfish, lobster, langoustine and oysters to cod and chips and haddock fish cakes. And caviar.
The prices are reasonable and the food is fresh daily and very tasty, so there's no need to wait for a special occasion to eat here.
Likewise, if you don't fancy forking out £165 for a bottle of Cristal, the wine list starts at a more affordable £12.50.
The gantry is something to behold. There are rows of rarely seen bottles of spirits and liqueurs, with premium beers on tap, the Russian speciality beer Baltika by the bottle, cigars and a decent choice of malts.
And when they say they do cocktails, they mean it.
You can sample 50, classic and contemporary, although it's best not to be too curious in the one session.
Mr Barr holds his hands up to putting style over content in the past, but this time service and training is high on the agenda, so you shouldn't have to wait too long for the mixologists to do their stuff.
Music has always played an important part in Colin's bars, so the sound system is the best of gear customised just for them, so that they can be chameleonlike with the music too.
I caught The ManWho Shot Liberty Valance on one visit.
So glamour's back in town, but this time it's not just for ''regulars only''.
And just in case anyone's wondering about the strangely unglamorous name, it comes from a reconditioned Americana clothes shop in Amsterdam that Barr used to spend all his cash in many moons ago, and not something that's likely to appear on your plate.
Give it a whirl you certainly won't be disappointed.
Open: Noon until midnight, seven days 
